Why Vitamin C antioxidant is an essential skincare ingredient

Vitamin C is one of our most important antioxidant vitamins essential for health and a vital molecule needed by the skin. It has a fascinating history but this article which is not intended to be read as a scholarly article but more as an interesting introduction is only going to concentrate on Vitamin C and its relation to our skin...

It is a useful fact that our skin absorbs Vitamin C more effectively through the skin from topical application than via the digestion. The skin still benefits from Vitamin C via the digestion but it benefits more from topical application.

The skin is our largest organ also known as the integumentary system. It is the external part of our digestion and the external part of our immune system, in short it is the outside of our inside and it has many very important functions. It protects us, cools us and warms us. Our skin breaths, absorbs, metabolizes, and excretes all at the same time as holding us together.

Skin needs nourishment in the form of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, proteins and essential fatty acids acids. A healthy diet is essential but topical application has also been shown to be an effective way of feeding the skin with essential nutrients.

Vitamin C is a vital molecule for the skin, essential for the synthesis of collagen and elastin, wound healing, and protection from UV radiation.

Topical application of Vitamin C especially when combined with other antioxidants such as Tocotrienols (members of the Vitamin E family of antioxidants ) greatly reduces DNA damage caused by UV light exposure...but.

Vitamin C also known as Ascorbic acid is an unstable molecule that oxidizes quickly in water turning it brown as it reduces into dehydroascorbic acid. Fortunately Scientists have discovered a stable alternative...

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is an excellent stable derivative of Ascorbic acid. It has all the benefits of Vitamin C without being acidic and without oxidising in solution. It is water soluble, very gentle on the skin and it continues to release vitamin C into the skin for up to 72 hours after application and once its been absorbed into the skin, it can’t be washed off.


What are the proven benefits and therapeutic action of topically applied Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate for our skin ?..
✶ Powerful antioxidant vitamin effective for up to 72 hours after application
✶ Stimulates and boosts Collagen production in the skin.
✶ Reduces inflammation and skin eruptions such as spots.
✶ Was shown to heal and discourage Acne Vulgaris more effectively than the leading treatment.
✶ Has a gentle skin lightening effect useful for fading and discouraging sunspots and kerotosis.
✶ Protection from environmental oxidation also known as free radicals.
✶ Protects the skin from UV radiation, not as a filter or screen but as a powerful antioxidant.
✶ An aid in the treatment of dry skin.

Science tells us that a minimum of 1% dilution of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and a maximum of 10% dilution is the optimal strength to benefit the skin therapeutically. It is believed that 1% confers some antioxidant protection to the skin, 3% stimulates Collagen synthesis and 7% or more has a gentle and natural lightening effect useful for fading and discouraging sun spots but more than 10% in dilution did not show greatly increased benefits.

In the same way as dietary supplements are more effective and efficient when taken more than once a day, repeated application of topical Vitamin C in the form of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is an effective and efficient way of boosting Vitamin C levels in the skin.

Unfortunately 3% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate feels unpleasant on the skin leaving a sticky tacky coating that doesn't absorb into the skin quickly or easily and so more than a 3% dilution wouldn't be very practical for a non medical skincare product although we have been experimenting with ways of increasing Vitamin C with some success.

By experimentation I settled on a 2.5% dilution as the perfect upper limit for Vitamin C in our products. The best way of getting therapeutic levels of Vitamin C into the skin is via repeated application. This could be one product applied 2 times a day or 2 or more products applied once a day.

Cold blending allows me to synergistically blend our fruit and berry seed oils and herbal extracts together without unwanted carrier oils or fillers to create high potency skin food rich in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids designed to help heal, protect, nourish and repair skin.

We use 2.5% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in each of the following products.

Rose & Pomegranate Antioxidant Cream Cleanser

Rose & Pomegranate Clarifying Gel Cleanser

Rose & Pomegranate Antioxidant Liquid Exfoliator

Rose & Pomegranate Antioxidant Hydrating Toner

Rosehip & Pomegranate Antioxidant Moisturiser

Age defiance Facial Firming Moisturiser

Raspberry & Shea Body Lotion

Thank you for reading, if you have any questions I would love to hear from you.


Maeve :-)

references

http://lpi.oregonstate.edu/infocenter/skin/vitamin...

Woolery-Lloyd H, Baumann L, Ikeno H. Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. J Cosmet Dermatol 2010;9:22-27. (PubMed)

Klock J, Ikeno H, Ohmori K, Nishikawa T, Vollhardt J, Schehlmann V. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. Int J Cosmet Sci 2005;27:171-176. (PubMed)

Cosgrove MC, Franco OH, Granger SP, Murray PG, Mayes AE. Dietary nutrient intakes and skin-aging appearance among middle-aged American women. Am J Clin Nutr 2007;86:1225-1231. (PubMed)

The Natural Wisdom Of Antioxidants In Preventing Premature Ageing.

Natural Wisdom Organic Skincare is handmade using a cold process that guarantees 100% bioactive potency. Our Rosehip & Pomegranate Organic Facial Collection is designed around a core of 15 of the highest potency natural and organic ingredients and we formulate using therapeutic levels of these to maximise potency and give great resuts.

These fifteen ingredients are our tripple seed oil blend of Rosehip, Raspberry (38%) and Pomegranate (20%) eight CO2 (Supercritical fluid extracts) Calendula, Chamomile, Carrot, Seabuckthorn, Amaranth, Rosehip, Pomegranate and Rosemary. Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Hylauronic Acid and Aloe Vera.

I began researching the art and science of skincare in 2006, since then, I have been heavily focused on studying the role that antioxidants have in repairing and protecting the skin. Having spent more than half of my 39 years living south of the Equator I have seen first hand the effects of sun exposure on my own skin. Each and every day, without fail, our skin is bombarded with environmental assailants resulting from exposure to smoke, processed food, alcohol, pollution, and most importantly, ultraviolet radiation from the sun. This is in addition to the free radicals generated by our own metabolism which trigger the release of inflammatory mediators which break down collagen and cause premature ageing.

There are many high quality studies and trials proving that antioxidants applied to the skin’s surface can offer protection from sun damage and stimulate collagen production, reducing the signs of ageing. The most powerful and potent of these topical antioxidants are Vitamin C and cold pressed Seed Oils of Pomegranate, Raspberry & Rosehip. Still relatively unknown I include the new generation of Supercritical herbal and botanical extracts also known as CO2 extraction of which Rosemary Antioxidant is one of the most powerful, with it’s detaphenol profile it is many times more potent than Vitamin E and has the benefit of being able to protect delicate seed oils from oxidation, increasing their shelf life by many times and contributing to their antioxidant action on the skin.

Vitamin C is a unique and very powerful antioxidant for the skin. When applied correctly, It has the ability to help prevent water loss and encourage increased collagen and elastin formation as well as deactivate unstable free radicals, growing evidence shows that Vitamin C has a synergistic relationship when combined with other antioxidants such as vitamin E. Trails have also shown that Vitamin C has an important role in the treatment and prevention of Acne and is healing when correctly applied to skin rashes and eruptions.

However, Vitamin C in its ascorbic acid form is unstable and quickly oxidises when mixed with water and exposed to light and oxygen. The solution to the instability of Ascorbic Acid is a stabilised derivative of Vitamin C known as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate which has all the benefits of Vitamin C without any of the failings.

It is the rare, essential fatty acids and polyphenols in cold pressed Pomegranate seed oil that give this fruit its antioxidant potency. These bioactive compounds are the subject of many scientific trials, the results of which show some extraordinary findings, such as; cold pressed Pomegranate seed oil boosts the SPF rating of topical sunscreens and that the punicic and  ellagic acid, found in pomegranate seed oil has the strongest age-proofing capabilities to date and is currently being studied for its anti-cancer and healing benefits.

In a recent South Dakota State University study entitled Chemopreventative Effects of Pomegranate Seed Oil on Skin Tumor Development, Pomegranate extract was applied topically to topical skin tumors on mice. After five weeks, the study concluded that topical application of pomegranate oil inhibited papilloma incidence and activity.

Raspberry Seed Oil (cold processed) has been shown in research trials to possesses an exceptionally high proportion of alpha and gamma tocopherols (Vitamin E antioxidant compounds), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. In a study done on the properties of Red Raspberry Seed Oil, the oil showed a natural SPF in the UV-A, UV-B and UV-C ranges of 28-50 suggesting that it may be useful as a broad spectrum UV protectant in skin care formulations (Oomah et al, 2000). Red Raspberry Oil is rich in alpha linolenic acid suggesting pronounced anti-inflammatory properties, thus it may be an effective oil to use in the treatment of eczema, psoriasis and other skin conditions.

Rosehip Seed Oil is known to provide a potent source of Trans-Retinoic Acid, a precursor to Vitamin A,  widely recommended by skin care specialists to help prevent premature ageing, heal, rejuvenate, soothe and stimulate healthy skin cell renewal.
It reduces uneven skin pigmentation and provides a very potent source of antioxidants, vitamins A, C & E, minerals & essential fatty acids, Rosehip seed oil is also known to help discourages spots, acne and skin irritations.






Main bibliography sources:

www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
www.sciencedirect.c

How I improved my blemishes and patchy skin...

A LITTLE BIT OF BACKGROUND...

From the age of about 21, I started to suffer from really aggressive allergic rhinitis. I had always been allergic to sea food, lobster being the worst. When I was 3 I had my first experience of my seafood allergy when I developed septicemia and boils all over my scalp, I had to have my head shaved. Believing this to be a unique incident my parents gave me sea food another 2 times over the next few years before telling me I should never eat it because it was bad for me....like they needed to tell me that! each time the same thing happened...

I have for some reason been prone to skin eruptions all my life, from bouts of cystic acne along my chin line to the occasional boil. I am prone to spots too and years of struggling with allergic rhinitis and cat allergies gave me a poor skin complexion. I had a patchy skin tone and blemishes. My worst areas were under my eyes where I had a large angioma under my right eye, possibly from damage caused by sneezing all the time and rubbing by eyes. I used to rub my eyes a lot.

In 2001 I began studying to become a homeopath, a couple of years before my homeopath had completly cured my allergic rhinitis. I was thrilled!

My complexion did improve a little, my eyes were no longer swollen and red but my skintone did not. I still had very uneven skin tone, burst blood vessels and blemishes around my cheeks and chin.

NOW FOR THE GOOD STUFF.....

In 2006 I started to take making my own skincare more seriously, I began to research it and it became an obsession I still have today. The first product I made for myself was my Rosehip & Pomegranate Antioxidant Treatment Oil. My clients began to comment on how well I looked...and I did. I had noticed my skin tone was improving, my blemishes deminishing. Even my angioma was fading...

In 2007 I began to sell my skincare to family, friends and clients. I noticed that the only time I got a spot now was if I was very stressed instead of before.

In 2009 I was becoming pretty busy with my skincare business and I was lucky enough to join forces with a good friend who became my business partner.

All this time I was using my own brand of skincare. I will never use anything else now.

2011 and my skin looks as flawless as if I was wearing a light foundation. My angioma is gone, my chin and jaw line is clear, my cheeks are clear.

 HOW CAN THIS HELP MY SKIN ?...

I have learned that there is a big difference between middle of the road, diluted skincare ingredients and premium organic high potency ingredients. There is a massive difference between Rosehip seed oil and sunflower seed oil. There is a big difference between Almond oil and Pomegranate seed oil or raspberry seed oil... There is a massive difference between CO2 herbal and botanical extracts and alcohol botanical and herbal extracts...

It really does matter what we put on our skin. If our skincare is based on water, sunflower oil and wax emulsifiers we can't expect any significant results. If our skincare is based on high potency antioxidant ingredients and seed oils with no fillers and no nonsense....then we can expect a very big difference over time. For me I began to notice a difference after 3 months.

FACIAL MASSAGE ...

I also began to realise that MASSAGING our face when we apply our skincare is incredibly important. Don't just slap it on in an unloving way. A good facial massage 2-3 times a day for between 5 - 10 minutes stimulates collagen, blood circulation and skin renewal.

ANTIOXIDANTS IN SKINCARE...

Skincare without antioxidants in my mind is completey pointless...

The right antioxidants are incredibly important. Vitamin C is magic but only if it is a stabilised Vitamin C. We use Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate shown to improve and accelerate Collagen and reduce blemishes while discourageing acne. It is also important to use it in the right quantity. It won't work unless you use enough of it in your formula, but it expensive witch is why profit driven companies use so little in their formula's.

Our skincare formulations are designed to be highly antioxidant. We really pack in the vitamins and nutrients because it is this kind of skincare that is effectively anti ageing. It really works. I tried a great number of skincare products before making my own. My mission then and my mission now is to create the skincare you would like to make for your self...

I hope this has been useful. :-)