Vitamin C is one of our most important antioxidant vitamins essential for health and a vital molecule needed by the skin. It has a fascinating history but this article which is not intended to be read as a scholarly article but more as an interesting introduction is only going to concentrate on Vitamin C and its relation to our skin...
It is a useful fact that our skin absorbs Vitamin C more effectively through the skin from topical application than via the digestion. The skin still benefits from Vitamin C via the digestion but it benefits more from topical application.
The skin is our largest organ also known as the integumentary system. It is the external part of our digestion and the external part of our immune system, in short it is the outside of our inside and it has many very important functions. It protects us, cools us and warms us. Our skin breaths, absorbs, metabolizes, and excretes all at the same time as holding us together.
Skin needs nourishment in the form of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, proteins and essential fatty acids acids. A healthy diet is essential but topical application has also been shown to be an effective way of feeding the skin with essential nutrients.
Vitamin C is a vital molecule for the skin, essential for the synthesis of collagen and elastin, wound healing, and protection from UV radiation.
Topical application of Vitamin C especially when combined with other antioxidants such as Tocotrienols (members of the Vitamin E family of antioxidants ) greatly reduces DNA damage caused by UV light exposure...but.
Vitamin C also known as Ascorbic acid is an unstable molecule that oxidizes quickly in water turning it brown as it reduces into dehydroascorbic acid. Fortunately Scientists have discovered a stable alternative...
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is an excellent stable derivative of Ascorbic acid. It has all the benefits of Vitamin C without being acidic and without oxidising in solution. It is water soluble, very gentle on the skin and it continues to release vitamin C into the skin for up to 72 hours after application and once its been absorbed into the skin, it can’t be washed off.
What are the proven benefits and therapeutic action of topically applied Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate for our skin ?..
✶ Powerful antioxidant vitamin effective for up to 72 hours after application
✶ Stimulates and boosts Collagen production in the skin.
✶ Reduces inflammation and skin eruptions such as spots.
✶ Was shown to heal and discourage Acne Vulgaris more effectively than the leading treatment.
✶ Has a gentle skin lightening effect useful for fading and discouraging sunspots and kerotosis.
✶ Protection from environmental oxidation also known as free radicals.
✶ Protects the skin from UV radiation, not as a filter or screen but as a powerful antioxidant.
✶ An aid in the treatment of dry skin.
Science tells us that a minimum of 1% dilution of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and a maximum of 10% dilution is the optimal strength to benefit the skin therapeutically. It is believed that 1% confers some antioxidant protection to the skin, 3% stimulates Collagen synthesis and 7% or more has a gentle and natural lightening effect useful for fading and discouraging sun spots but more than 10% in dilution did not show greatly increased benefits.
In the same way as dietary supplements are more effective and efficient when taken more than once a day, repeated application of topical Vitamin C in the form of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is an effective and efficient way of boosting Vitamin C levels in the skin.
Unfortunately 3% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate feels unpleasant on the skin leaving a sticky tacky coating that doesn't absorb into the skin quickly or easily and so more than a 3% dilution wouldn't be very practical for a non medical skincare product although we have been experimenting with ways of increasing Vitamin C with some success.
By experimentation I settled on a 2.5% dilution as the perfect upper limit for Vitamin C in our products. The best way of getting therapeutic levels of Vitamin C into the skin is via repeated application. This could be one product applied 2 times a day or 2 or more products applied once a day.
Cold blending allows me to synergistically blend our fruit and berry seed oils and herbal extracts together without unwanted carrier oils or fillers to create high potency skin food rich in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids designed to help heal, protect, nourish and repair skin.
We use 2.5% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate in each of the following products.
Rose & Pomegranate Antioxidant Cream Cleanser
Rose & Pomegranate Clarifying Gel Cleanser
Rose & Pomegranate Antioxidant Liquid Exfoliator
Rose & Pomegranate Antioxidant Hydrating Toner
Rosehip & Pomegranate Antioxidant Moisturiser
Age defiance Facial Firming Moisturiser
Raspberry & Shea Body Lotion
Thank you for reading, if you have any questions I would love to hear from you.
Maeve :-)
references
http://lpi.oregonstate.edu/infocenter/skin/vitamin...
Woolery-Lloyd H, Baumann L, Ikeno H. Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. J Cosmet Dermatol 2010;9:22-27. (PubMed)
Klock J, Ikeno H, Ohmori K, Nishikawa T, Vollhardt J, Schehlmann V. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. Int J Cosmet Sci 2005;27:171-176. (PubMed)
Cosgrove MC, Franco OH, Granger SP, Murray PG, Mayes AE. Dietary nutrient intakes and skin-aging appearance among middle-aged American women. Am J Clin Nutr 2007;86:1225-1231. (PubMed)
